Ho Chi Minh City: Paris of the Orient to Hi-Tech Tiger

Situated on the banks of the Saigon River and just 60km from the South China Sea, Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is the largest city in Vietnam. Though still known to many as Saigon, the city was renamed in 1976 subsequent to the Fall of Saigon, a historical event triggering a series of dramatic changes in the national economy pushed by Ho Chi Minh’s successors. The rapidly expanding city is the economic center of Vietnam, and is quickly becoming an important hi-tech center in South-Eastern Asia.

The architecture of HCMC attests to its varied past. Wide boulevards and classical Western-style buildings earned the city the nickname “the Paris of the Orient” during the French Colonial era. The elaborate Hotel de Ville de Saigon is now somewhat incongruously named the HCMC People’s Committee Head Office.

The Reunification Palace is a restoration of the former South Vietnamese Presidential Palace, and recreates the conditions of the 1960s building, before a tank famously crashed through the gate, signaling the end of the Vietnam War.

Today, HCMC drives the economy of Vietnam. Since 1999, the population has increased by over 200,000 people per year, and predictions place the city at a population of 20 million by 2020. In response to this rapid growth, the city has launched aggressive development efforts to establish new urban centers. Two of the most recent centers are the Thu Thiem Center and the Phy My Hung Center, which include several international schools and received the Model New City Award from the Vietnamese government.

The industries in Ho Chi Minh City range from mining, seafood processing and agriculture to construction, tourism, finance, and trading. The first stock exchange in Vietnam opened in HCMC in 2001. The economic growth of the city is apparent in the increase of GDP per capita: in 2006 the GDP per capita of the city was $730USD, and in 2007 it was $2,100USD.

Perhaps the most exciting area of development in HCMC is the expanding hi-tech and software sector. HCMC increasingly is a center for outsourcing, drawing both foreign and local investment. The city has 15 industrial parks and export-processing zones, as well as three large software parks. These parks—the Quang Trung Software Park, Saigon Hi-Tech Park, and the Tan Thuan Export Processing Zone—include software enterprises, dot.com companies, and software training schools. In addition, these parks provide residencies and favorable taxation for workers.

Ho Chi Minh City has a vibrant cultural scene, with both historical and contemporary attractions. In many ways the cultural center of Vietnam, HCMC is home to the Museum of Vietnamese History, Botanical Gardens, and the Fine Arts Museum. Though demographically the city is about 90% ethnic Vietnamese, the Cholon district functions as the city’s Chinatown and is filled with beautiful colorful pagodas.

Home to 80 universities, Ho Chi Minh City is the country’s center of higher education. The HCMC General Library houses 1.5 million books. Ho Chi Minh City is also home to many theater companies, the majority of which are privately owned, and unlike other Vietnamese theater troupes are not subsidized by the government. The Conservatory of Music performs both traditional Vietnamese and Western classical music.

Ho Chi Minh City is the most popular Vietnamese destination for foreign tourists. Accommodations range from upscale luxury hotels to a myriad of budget hostel-style establishments, especially common in the backpacker quadrant of Pham Ngu Lao. Standard Vietnamese fare is the delicious Pho—noodles and meat in a broth soup, usually served with an accompanying plate of bean sprouts, chili, lime wedges and basil leaves.

Going Green While Going Global: Tips to keep your world travel earth-friendly!

If you’ve done any traveling in the world, you’ll agree that it’s hard not to be awed by the beauty and incredible richness of this earth’s physical and cultural diversity. Given all the wonder that this world has to offer us, it’s about time that we started paying attention to the impact that our journeying can have! With that in mind, here are some tips to help keep your travels as eco-friendly as possible.

1. Do your homework!

You wouldn’t set out on a trip without first learning about your destination, would you? Of course not! Guide books, train schedules, weather reports…well, traveling green begins before you arrive at your destination as well. Do your research: there is a growing market for environmentally friendly travel options, from green hotels to hybrid rental cars. Get as much information as you can before making a decision–some companies are trying to cash in on the new “eco” trend by marketing their services as green without providing any significant environmental incentives, so be careful not to get drawn in by flashy slogans over demonstrated responsible practices.

Learn more about Carbon Offsetting Programs, and consider participating. Many companies, especially airlines, now partner with these programs. The basic process is to calculate the estimated carbon emissions from your travel (there are many online calculators), and then make a donation to an offsetting program. These contributions fund sustainable development projects, such as reforestation. The idea is to balance out the negative impact of a human activity with some positive impact!

2. Pre-Departure: steps to take before you take off

Unplug as many electronic devices and appliances as you safely can before leaving your home. Many electronics, even when off, still draw some power as long as they are plugged in.

This should be obvious, but turn off your lights! If you are worried about leaving your house dark for a long period of time, invest in a timer that can turn on a lamp for a few hours once in a while.

Pack light! The less luggage, the less fuel needed to transport it. Plus, your back will thank you, and no need to wait at the conveyor belt! Great things to pack: a stainless steel water bottle, an extra cloth bag or two (great for carrying food, souvenirs, etc.!), and a set of silverware so that you don’t need to use disposable plastic utensils.

3. Kicking back at your hotel

Put housekeeping on hold–many hotels now have a system in place to indicate to housekeepers that you do not wish your towels to be changed daily (leave on floor to be changed, on rack to reuse). But what about your sheets and everything else? When you head out for the day, place the “Do Not Disturb” sign on your door.

Temperature regulation: if you are visiting somewhere steamy and warm, turn off the air conditioning when you leave for the day, or raise the average temperature by a few degrees. The reverse is true for cold-weather destinations–lower the heat a few degrees before leaving the room. You won’t really notice the difference, and you can always turn it back up once you’re ready to relax inside for the evening!

Don’t use the free little toiletries provided. Granted, they are cute and can feel luxurious, but they use an extraordinary amount of unnecessary packaging. If need be, just use the first day’s supply and not the replacements, and take the bottles with you to reuse and fill up at home for your next trip.

Try to take shorter showers. There’s something about traveling that can lead us all to a little extra indulgence here and there, and a nice long steamy shower can feel like just the ticket to wash away the grime of the road. But try to keep it short! And if you’re staying at a hostel or a small B&B, the other travelers will thank you for the hot water and your consideration.

4. When you’re painting the town…green

One of the most basic tips, but use public transportation! Much more environmentally friendly than a car. An added bonus is experiencing the city like a local, as well as meeting interesting people and seeing new neighborhoods. Another option is to rent bikes—an upside to this is that you can stop whenever, wherever you like!

If you are walking or hiking in a park, preserve, or other nature area, please stay on the marked trails. This helps preserve the plant and wildlife, and keeps you safe—there is a reason that the trails are placed where they are!

When you are buying souvenirs to remember your trip and give to your friends and family, buy responsibly. Try to get souvenirs that are produced locally, such as crafts or regional specialties. These will be more unique, will support the local economy, and are more environmentally friendly than items that have been transported from afar. By the same token, try to shop at locally owned businesses, rather than the hotel or airport gift shop. Try to buy souvenirs that are lightweight and small; again, the less they weigh, the less fuel needed to bring them back home!

Getting Festive While Flying Solo

Or, a Glow-Paint, Reggae Music 4th of July

Holidays are a time for family and friends, reliving old traditions and enjoying the comforts of familiarity. Unfortunately, if you happen to be in a foreign country, especially one that doesn't celebrate that holiday at all, holidays can bring on a bout of loneliness and longing for home. Luckily, for the solo traveler, holidays are a great way to connect with fellow adventurers, so that you can celebrate your own traditions together while exploring somewhere new! And, hopefully, make some great friends in the process.

A few summers ago I was backpacking around South East Asia, and found myself in Ko Phangan, Thailand, for the 4th of July. This is an important holiday in my family; aunts, uncles, cousins, family friends, neighbors--you name it!--head to my grandmother's house by the seaside for a weekend of fireworks, cookouts, late night drinks, and, of course, red, white and blue. It's the one time a year that the whole family gets together, and has come to symbolize for me the importance of unity--as a family, and as a nation.

So I was a little disappointed to miss out on the festivities. Granted, I was at least at the seaside--a gorgeous, palm-tree lined, white-sanded seaside, bordered by rocky cliff faces covered in jungle. Not bad. But still, I was missing my New England roots. So, on the 4th, I put on a red and white shirt and my trusty blue sweat bandana (it was Thailand, in July, ok? Things got sweaty.) And you know what? Throughout the day, I noticed other American tourists doing the same thing, and when i heard an American accent, I wished them "Happy 4th of July!" As a fairly shy person, I wouldn't have usually approached random travelers, but hey, we needed to celebrate!

That night, I headed to my favorite bar on the island, an open-air hut with old-school reggae music, black lights hung up and free neon paint, so you could decorate the tables, chairs, walls, and yourself. And there I saw several of the Americans that I had spoken to earlier, replicating the fireworks at home with the brightly colored, glowing splatterings of paint! We weren't trying to be obnoxious Americans, and luckily everyone involved had the respect and taste not to come across that way; but it felt great to be acknowledging this holiday that was special to us--especially because we were abroad.

If you find yourself far from home on a special day, don't let it get you down! Take the initiative to use the holiday to connect with other people who hold it dear. In many countries, the American embassy holds celebrations for special days such as the 4th of July, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Yom Kippur. And in large cities, upscale chain hotels such as the Hilton, Ritz-Carlton, Hyatt, etc. often host holiday celebrations for their guests that anyone can attend for a fee. If you're staying in a hostel, gather other backpackers to celebrate with you, regardless of nationality! If there is a specific tradition in your family, try and put together a make-shift recreation!

As always with traveling, safety and respect are the name of the game when celebrating abroad. Be sure that your festivities are not frowned upon in your host country. And especially for Americans, be extremely aware of your surroundings and company before advertising your foreign nationality. That said, remember that holidays, regardless of what they celebrate, are all about coming together and commemorating something special, so use them as a chance to share your traditions with others, learn about new customs, make friends, and have fun!

There's a new Pnin-up girl in town!

The November issue of Playboy de-robed cartoon character Marge Simpson, the first time the magazine has featured an animated model. In the next issue (December, set to hit newsstands in early November), the magazine will return to an old standard: Nabokov.

Don't worry, there will still be plenty of girls and not much clothing. But "Laura" is the one in this issue recieving all the media buzz; excerpts from Vladimir Nabokov's unfinished and previously unpublished novel, The Original of Laura, will appear in Playboy. According to various reviews, The Original of Laura centers around a corpulent scholar who is obsessively infatuated with his slender, promiscuous wife, who in turn resembles a young woman he was previously was in love with. As in much of Nabokov's writing, the themes of mortality, obsession, self-definition and self-erasure take prominence. This novel was still unfinished when Nabokov died on July 2, 1977. As Nabokov had given instructions that any unfinished work should be destroyed upon his death, his son Dmitri and wife Vera long deliberated as to the incomplete manuscript's fate. This spring, Dmitri announced that the text would be published, and soon Playboy revealed that they would have first serial rights. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Though perhaps initially surprising, the pairing makes sense. Besides the infamously sexual novel Lolita, many of Nabokov's novels--Pale Fire, Pnin, Ada, or Ardor--deal with themes of sexuality, whether focusing on desire, repression, confusion, or passion. In fact, Nabokov granted Playboy an extensive interview in 1964, and in 1969, Playboy excerpted Nabokov's novel Ada, or Ardor. Playboy even named the writer no. 22 on their list of the most important people in sex from the past 55 years.

So good news, guys! At least for the next month, you have a respectable excuse...even if you're really just checking out the cover girl, Joanna Krupa...

Happy (late) Birthday, Ezra Pound

October 30th was the poet Ezra Pound's birthday (with the modernist sensibility to time and memory, I'm sure he wouldn't mind this coming a few days late...) A controversial figure throughout his lifetime, especially due to his support of Benito Mussolini and his anti-Semitism, Pound was nevertheless one of the most influential literary figures of the 20th century. A central figure in the Modernist movement, Pound was actively involved in the careers of other writers, such as Robert Frost, Ernest Hemingway, and most famously T.S. Eliot. Much of his own poetry promoted Imagism--an aesthetic of clarity and precise language. The three poems below--some of his most famous--demonstrate the imaginative sharpness of his writing. Somehow I doubt Ezra was into birthday cakes. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)

In A Station Of The Metro

The apparition of these faces in the crowd;
Petals on a wet, black bough.

Meditatio

When I carefully consider the curious habits of dogs
I am compelled to conclude
That man is the superior animal.

When I consider the curious habits of man
I confess, my friend, I am puzzled.

Salutation

O generation of the thoroughly smug
and thoroughly uncomfortable,
I have seen fishermen picnicking in the sun,
I have seen them with untidy families,
I have seen their smiles full of teeth
and heard ungainly laughter.
And I am happier than you are,
And they were happier than I am;
And the fish swim in the lake
and do not even own clothing.

Good Manners and a Risky Heart: The Literary Appeal of Savannah

Savannah, Georgia. This Southern city has become synonymous with a kind of languid elegance, a slow-seeping decadence, that alluring mix of hospitality and tradition with just a hint of seedy underbelly peeking out from behind the Spanish moss. It’s no surprise that Savannah has long captured the literary imagination, and the writers that have fallen under its spell have surely done their duty to perpetuate to city’s mystique.

The most famous literary tribute to Savannah, now know by locals simply as “The Book,” undoubtedly is John Berendt’s 1994 nonfiction novel, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. Later adapted into a film directed by Clint Eastwood, Berendt’s book traces his experiences in the city in the wake of a local murder. Berendt encounters a variety of eccentric characters, from the wealthy antique dealer Jim Williams, accused of murder, to local drag queen and entertainer the Lady Chablis. Berendt weaves these portraits of the disparate and vibrant residents of Savannah into not only an engrossing narrative, but also sense of the city itself.

In a much earlier literary appearance, Savannah serves as the death-site of Robert Louis Stevenson’s Captain J. Flint, “the bloodthirstiest buccaneer that ever lived.” In Treasure Island, Stevenson described the ruthless pirate on his deathbed in a tavern based on The Pirate House of Savannah. After shouting, “Fetch aft the rum Darby!” Captain Flint supposedly passes on the map to his buried treasure. The Pirate House was allegedly an actual inn that was frequented by pirates in the late 1700s.

A famous literary son of Savannah, the poet and author Conrad Aiken paid homage in his writing to the city that brought him comfort and pain. Aiken discovered the bodies of his parents after his father killed his mother and then committed suicide; Aiken would later move back to Savannah, into the house next door to the site of the tragedy. His highly autobiographical short story, “Strange Moonlight,” follows a young boy around the city, from Bonaventura Cemetery to Tybee beach. Conrad Aiken is buried in Bonaventura Cemetery, under a stone bench which reads, “Cosmos Mariner, Destination Unknown.”

Other well known books on Savannah and it’s literature include Chris Fuhrman’s memoir The Dangerous Lives of Alter Boys, as well as Only in Savannah, a collection of stories by writer Tom Coffey. Literary Savannah, by Patrick Allen, is an excellent anthology of fiction and nonfiction stories about Savannah.

In an article entitled, “Sip It Slow,” British journalist Nik Cohn describes his retreat to Savannah, inspired in part by John Berendt’s writing. Cohn pinpoints the peculiar attraction of the city: “Savannah has elaborate good manners, but a risky heart—a combination I’ve always found alluring.” Along with its flowered squares and hidden courtyards, stately mansions and mysterious superstitions, the slow indulgence of Savannah will always prey on the intellectual imagination. Cohn described Savannah’s magical effect well when he said, “Before I came to Savannah, I’d almost forgotten how good surrender can feel.”

"Secret" Travel Writers: Chuck Klosterman

Chuck Klosterman is an American humorist, best known for writing on rock music and pop culture. But did you know that he is also a travel writer? In his book, Killing Yourself to Live: 85% of a True Story, Klosterman traces across the United States, visiting the sites where famous rock and roll artists died. Much of the book focuses on his relationship with three women in his life, and his writing is often in the same high-speed, ranting, colorful style as his earlier works such as Sex, Drugs and Cocoa Puffs: A Low-Culture Manifesto. But at its heart, Killing Yourself to Live is a road story, following the classic American structure of a man with existential questions searching for answers on the open highway. And while Klosterman includes many fictional elements, the theme of music’s “death sites” lends itself well to travel writing. The impact of music, like the sense of a physical place, can be hard to translate into words. Klosterman’s writing isn’t explicitly interested in travel, but he clearly understands the link between place and sound, how a few details can stick in the mind and conjure up an entire experience. Klosterman uses the limitations of one to convey the other: listing off band names to convey the cooler-than-thou attitude of Manhattan, or capturing the hopeless boredom of a late night drive by describing the changing songs on the radio.